Several months ago, a number of us were invited to participate in a “Friendship Delegation to Iran” this February.  Already, many have been trying to move from the image of an “axis of evil” including Iran to an “Axis of Friendship.” In San Francisco and other cities, as we commemorated 9/11/2001, gatherings were held to recall the friendship of Iran expressed on that fateful occasion.  We were told that on the day following the attack on the twin towers, the people of Iran burned candles in their windows in support of the United States. This year, adults and children participated with candles and letters and artworks addressed to the children of Iran.

We came to Tehran bearing a banner, buttons, and cards announcing the Axis of Friendship.  We have been met with an amazing response of friendship.  Iran has this reputation with all who visit.  They are personally very friendly.  Even with language barriers, we have become friends at once.  They are eager to tell their stories, their immense 5,000-year history as a people and a culture.  They share their pride in their land and civilization and also their sorrows at many wars and upheavals.  They readily relate the role our country has played as a builder of friendship but also of war. We could not help but agree with our complicity in their suffering.

For me, I was especially moved by Ali and Said, our young guides.  They represent contemporary Iran. They are well-educated, compassionate, most helpful, and very open with their lives.  This was very evident as they shared their history.  Their love for their land and people touched us. We could not help but share the joys and tears of their lives. They showed us the many shrines, awesome mosques, ancient artifacts.  They took us to the opulent palace of the former Shah, and then to the very humble residence of their religious and national leader Ayatollah Khomeini.  At the latter, in a small museum commemorating his life’s struggle and death, their obvious commitment to pursue his dedication to the people touched me very deeply.  I felt a pride in them and a love that brought me to tears.  I had adopted Ali and Said as my “grandsons,” grateful for their friendship and wanting deeply to respond as friend and family.